15. Tuscan vineyards and day trips

Tuscan sunset, La Pressura

While the main reason we had come to Italy was to follow the Giro D'Italia cycling it was followed a close second by our goal to enjoy local winery's and visit many of Tuscany's incredible villages.

San Gimignano was one of our day trips and quite possibly one of the top 10 days on our European trip! Seeing the village up on the hill was incredible and as we parked the car we realized the way in to the walled old town was via a lift built on to the old city wall. Getting in was accessible, moving around inside a bit more of a challenge! Like Sienna, San G was cobbled streets and hills but it was worth every bit of the pushing Dickey up hills and him bouncing across the cobble stones. A small village, it pretty beyond imagination. To us, more spectacular that Siena, but on par with Verona perhaps. We also loved the beautiful views of the Tuscan hills and surrounding vineyards from the city walls. We had read that the "worlds best gelato" was at Gelateria Dondoli, in the main piazza. It was seriously out of this world delicious and the 100m long line was definitely warranted! We were also lucky enough to meet the owner who makes a point of coming out to greet his customers when he is in town!

San Gimignano love

Gelateria Dondoli, line up. Best in the world!

Lucca was a town I had been lucky to visit twice in the past and I was determined to get Dickey there to see it. Distance wise it was a good day trip from our Tuscan base. Lucca is most famous for its well-preserved Renaissance walls encircling the city center and completely intact, as well as its gorgeous circular Piazza. It is the perfect little town for wandering and taking in the ancient sites. The botanical gardens are divine and the fable of the vane princess worth finding at the lily and tortoise pond. There is the 'del fosso' channel, the Atifeatro, the bell tower, Basilica Frediano with its uber high ceilings and marble columns, the frescos and the monuments. When travelling the first time I was amazed by the interior of the San Martino Cathedral and made sure I took Dickey to see it. He was given free entry as an added bonus and got to see the octagonal temple built in 1484 containing the Volto Santo of Lucca on a wooden crucifix, the sarcophagus and marble carving of its inhabitant, the many incredible art works, including the famous Last Supper depiction and the huge marble alter. It was another grand church in Italy. The perfect finish to our day in Lucca was to roll the 4 km circumference on top of the walls and then on the way back to our car to discover the tunnels within. It was a brilliant day in an Italian village.

Lucca's circular Piazza

Cinque Terre was unfortunately not such a successful day trip, with the only saving grace being that we had both been in the past, having completed the famed 14 km 'lovers lane' hike 8 years apart. We were so excited to go back to the villages and knew it would be a big day, but hopefully worth it. We had both used the trains between the villages so we took off early heading for Riomaggiore where we would leave the car and then spend the day going between the towns. It had been a morning of great excitement and little sleep as our race horse, Divine Chills had raced at Flemington, Melbourne and had won! She was not expected to given it was only her third race and we were beside ourselves with excitement especially after talking to the other syndicate owners in the Flemington owners bar! Battling our way through the north bound traffic on a sunny Saturday we found what appeared to be the last park in Riomaggiore, right beside the tourist information building. Perfect. In we went only to be greeted by the assistant shaking her head at us in dismay. "Cinque Terre fabulous, but not for a wheelchair". Thinking she meant the challenge of the hills we smiled assuring her we would be fine. Allowing her to explain we were informed that in the five villages there were only two stations with lifts and they were both out of order. All of them had many steps. We were stunned as she went on to explain we could drive to Manarola. It was flat, but had little to see or do and that she wouldn't recommend driving any further due to the narrow and dangerous roads. Apparently most of the locals even avoid them! We were pretty shattered to say the least and rolled down the newly constructed pathways to the lookout. We sat and looked out over the Mediterranean sea toward the villages we could no longer get to. We talked and reminisced and did our best to selvage the day. In a bizarre coincidence we also worked out that we had both stayed in the same private hostel in Riomaggiore 8 years apart. There had been plenty of works done to improve the main pathways and access to the train station, but the steep main street of Rio' was just as we both remembered. Over a stunning seafood lunch we cheered our girl Divine Chills on her win and tried to laugh away the disappointment. On the way up and out of the village we must have been a site as I pushed Dickey up the steep hill and back to the car. On recommendation of the Tourist Office clerk we stopped in at Porto Veneria on the way back to Tuscany. It was a flat and lovely village near La Spezia with a castle and fort out on the point and a lovely marina. The day had not been totally lost!

Riomaggiores' main street

Ponte Veneria

Ponte Vecchio brilliance

Our final day trip, on our last day in Tuscany was Florence. We took off in the morning to find the bus from the nearest village only to find ourselves in a huge storm and unable to find the main bus station! 10 days earlier I had freaked out at the thought of having to drive in Florence, but today I was over the nerves and we pushed on through the rain and drove the remaining 10 km. It was actually that close! After trawling the streets we found a vacant disabled parking space and took off to find a map and see the sites. At the spectacular Duomo we were granted free entry and didn't even need to wait in the huge lines. We wandered the Mercato and then meet the hilarious Michelangelo at 'Michelangelo's Leather'. Going on reviews it is the best place to get quality jackets, bags and leather goods. He is an incredible character, total flirt and very good salesman. We resisted his charms and left feeling almost guilty not to have bought that jacket that he assured us, suited me better than anyone he had ever seen! With kisses goodbye he invited us to return and stay at his apartment and have our honeymoon with him. Italians!  The Ponte Vecchio is always a favorite and we found a wine bar with perfect views and sheltered from the windy and cold day. Finishing the day via the Uffizzi Piazza we headed back to the car. It was our last night at the villa and we were off to Brescia the next morning. Back to our car spot we found the hire car gone. Our first guess was that it had been towed, but of course we worried it was stolen. Thank goodness the key tag had the registration details on it because I had left all the hire documents in the glove box, for safe keeping! With sheer luck a couple approached their car right beside us and we appealed to them for help in English. We were in luck, not only did they speak perfect English but the girl had the phone number for car tows in her phone! For those of us in Australia we know that having your car towed is a lengthy and challenging process. Tow depots are usually out of town and it is a costly process. My mind was racing and I was instantly trying to work out how we could get to the car in a cab, and find our way through Florence at night and I was also very grateful I hadn't splurged on that leather jacket at Michelangelo's as I was sure I was about to need that money to pay our fine. It was 7.45 pm when our savior dialed the number and judging by her conversation the office was still open and she was speaking to real perso, rather than a machine. This was our first surprise in the next series of many. From my limited Italian I gathered she was explaining our situation, the space we had parked in and gave our registration number. Thanking the respondent in 3 different ways, as Italians so uniquely do she turned to us to deliver the outcome. First she apologized that she couldn't get us out of the fine. Second, that we had actually parked in a personally allocated disabled space. We had not noticed the number on the sign and evidently this was a personal spot for a disabled resident in the street. Oops. Finally she informed us that our car was just around the corner and they walked us the 400m to find it!! We could not believe it and thanked them as best we possibly could for their kindness and support. Taking the fine slip from the windscreen we were in the car and now back on the road to our villa by 8.10pm. The final part to the story... the fine was 28.70 euros. But if you have seen the way Italians park, it makes more sense!

The second half of our European Adventure definitely involved a lot of wine, and it was total bliss. Not only is wine very cheap and often cheaper than bottled water, it is also very very good!

Of the winery's we enjoyed the following are certainly worth a mention. Capezzano, near Prato is just fantastic. Situated up on a hill you could look down towards Florence and make out the Duomo in the distance. They have been producing wine and olive oil for more than 1200 years, and their experience showed! The view from the terrace was stunning and the DOCG Reserva and Rosato was divine. In Australia cellar doors are a drop in and bookings rarely required. In Europe it is apparently the opposite. True to our form we never booked, but mostly got lucky being able to do the tastings and even get on to our tour at one of our favorite vineyards! At Capezzano they allowed us to do a full, impromptu testing and then enjoy a glass out on the terrace. It was fantastic.

Antorini nel Chianti, Bond wonderment!

An architectural wonder Antorini nel Chianti was out of this world! We had read up on its creation and were aware that the new modern building was getting mixed reviews. Over seven years it was literally re-built in to the hill, all weathered steel, curves and lines looking like they are naturally a part of the Tuscan hills. The front was all glass and the spiral staircase leading up to the restaurant was stunning. It really does feel like something out of a James Bond movie as you drive towards it and we took it a step further driving up to the main gates to inquire if we could park on site, instead of in the car park on the opposite side of the road. We were granted entry and literally drove in to the building, parking underneath. It was far from just a winery; it housed a museum, cellar door and tasting bar. Reserved for the tours was access to the barrel rooms and views of the glass floored private tasting rooms. We asked about tours, and while they were fully wheelchair accessible they were booked out for the day. After wandering the vast interior we asked if we could go up to the restaurant terrace and enjoy a wine. Other than the spiral stairs the only only access was via a staff lift at the back of house. We were escorted through the big old doors and suddenly we were on an elevated walkway overlooking the barrel rooms, vats and the famous tasting rooms . It was incredible and due to sheer luck we were seeing it all free of charge. We were even allowed to stop for photos! It was a sensory explosion with the temperate rooms, the smell of the fermenting wines, the architectural design and sheer size of it. We couldn't get the smiles off our faces! And then up at the restaurant those smiles got even bigger. It was incredible. A glass enclosed space surrounded by young vines, lawns and a rose arbor and trellis. The restaurant was actually on the roof, but the roof was the top of the hill! To add to the beauty there was the most epic storm brewing and the clouds were incredible. It was one of those experiences that was just perfect and with a wine in hand we sat out enjoying the view and watched the storm get closer until we had to shelter at the last minute. A most fantastic day.

Antorini terrace

Antorini terrace

The suspended tasting room & barrel views

While there were many afternoon storms and the weather was unseasonably cold during our two weeks in Tuscany we were lucky to make the most of the poolside view of the sunset at La Pressura. Looking out over the olive groves and vineyards we watched the sun slowly melt into the hills. The sunsets and dusk were slow and lingering in Italy, perfectly matched to the good wine and so very different to Australia. Our Tuscan adventure had been total bliss.

Tuscany Wed 11/5 - Tue 24/5

14. Tuscan bliss, Chianti, Siena and the Giro d'Italia

A major aim of our time in Italy was to enjoy the culture, the wine, the lifestyle, and of course to follow the Giro d Italia Cycling. When Dickey was able to confirm accessibility ** and book at La Pressura Agritorismo farm we were beyond excited, what a lucky find! We had two weeks staying in a 16th century farm house surrounded by olives and vineyards which produced one of the regions famous Chianti Classicos'. It was going to be bliss!!

13. Italy here we come, first stop Verona

With little sleep, but eager excitement to start our three weeks in Italy we checked out of the hotel and headed down to the station for our train to Verona. This time we caught the tram and despite it being Monday commuter peak hour other passengers happily assisted us on and off with our bags while I popped Dickey up the step in his chair. Bavarian's are a truly lovely bunch!  We were early at the station and 'checked ourselves in' at the info desk being advised to keep an eye out for the platform information and that the assistance lift would be there waiting. Time for breakfast we sat back and watched the world rush by, not a care in the world....

12. Munich and the Wings for Life World Run 2016

Munich became part of our itinerary due to the Wings for Life World Run being scheduled for May 8^th 2016. We were going to be ‘in the area anyway’ so it was a no brainer that we had to be there to support the foundation. How spoilt being in Melbourne one year and Munich the next! The Wings for Life foundation was created with the purpose of raising vital funds for Spinal Cord Injury research. Creating the World Run they designed a unique event that not only donate's 100% of  funds raised to research (Red Bull, Puma and Garmin cover the rest of the costs) it is also held at the same time in 32 cities around the world. While our friends ran at 9pm in Melbourne, we took off at exactly the same time in Munich, being 1pm on a sunny afternoon. The point of difference doesn’t stop there either; you don’t set out to run to a finish line. There is a catcher car that gradually increases pace and catches up to the runners. Once passed you are done! Basically you have no idea how far you will run for! In 2015 we had organised a big group of friends to participate in Melbourne with the aim of raising an additional $500 to donate to a friends son who had recently become a paraplegic.

Running a raffle and selling our specially designed T’shirts we raised $3500 and were able to up our donation’s for both Jason and the Wings for Life Foundation. The best bit is that our friends are still talking about it 18 months later, asking if  & where we will be lining up again in 2017. 

11. Berlin...

Berlin was absolutely the top of my list and having been to Germany three times previously I was adamant that I was not missing Berlin again.  Dickey had been in his 20's and loved it as had many of our friends. It came highly recommended.While elements were awesome, and it is a very livable, yet historical city, ironically perhaps Berlin turned out to be my least favorite destination on our itinerary. Maybe the saga of our arrival dampened it, maybe it has simply changed over time.....

Leaving Prague via train we had a little hiccup with the original train we had booked on, not being accessible. We were allocated a later train and the staff in Prague phoned ahead to the Berlin main station, assuring us there would be assistance on the platform when we arrived. On the journey I had spoken with the conductor who strongly resembled Sergeant Schulz off Hogans Heroes. With a simple inquiry it seemed he spoke some English and we continue on our way, again enjoying a lovely a train ride. When we arrived in to Berlin many hours later, it fast became evident that there was no assistance personnel waiting for us and throwing our bags from the train, I ran up the platform to seek out 'Sergeant Schulz's' assistance. All he could reply with was a shrug of his shoulders and 'Nein', over and over. It seemed both his English and human decency had vanished! The stress wasn't simply how to get Dickey off the train, it was the fact that this was not the final destination and the train would be leaving in a matter of minutes. Thankfully two other passengers came to our assistance and we carried Dickey down off the train. In exasperation I ran back up to the conductor, who continued to shrug and say Nein and yelled at him, in English, that one day he would need help and know one would be there. Not my finest moment, but at least I held in all the other profanities that came to mind. Back to Dickey and our pile of bags I burst in to tears, while Dickey, true to form remained calm and collected while over my shoulder secretly watching one of our saviors give our 'Sergeant' a solid talking to, in German this time!

10. Perfect Prague

Prague was a must on our list, and once again it was incredible! We had both been previously when travelling in our 20's having spent most of our time drinking cheap beer and finding random underground bars, plus a little afternoon site seeing. Returning this time, as an 'adult couple' we were excited to experience some culture and take in more sites. We were also intrigued to see just how hard the cobbles would make it for Dickey!

We left Budapest on the most gorgeous clear blue morning, catching our first Euro train on the 6 1/2 hour journey. The trip was brilliant from start to finish. The assistance lift was on the platform ready and waiting when we arrived, the staff were super relaxed and we were loaded into our own private cabin, paying second class prices! Dickey had the option of parking his own chair in one of the two spaces, or transferring onto a seat. The accessible toilet, complete with SOS buttons was right next door, winning! And the view on the journey.... Through the poorer, more rural parts of Hungary with its big 'Eastern block housing towers', vege gardens lining every rear yard and canola fields. Along the river and then down through Slovakian country side and into Czech Republic. So many fields, castles and forests to enjoy along the way. The train was definitely a great way to get around Europe.

Arriving into Prague we had great assistance off the train and were escorted all the way through to the main concourse. Our ongoing ticket was eventually purchased, with a few translation issues and we were on our way to our next hotel. With the help of other tourists and an abandoned tourist map we made it to our hotel. The distance from the station to Katerinska may not have been far in terms of distance, but carting 60 odd kilograms of luggage, over cobbles and up and down hills definitely added to the  intensity. 30 minutes later we arrived, checking in to our budget hotel for the next three nights, with the aiming of spending little time in the room. Thank goodness for our plan, because it was TINY. Dickey could get to one side of the bed and squeeze into the bathroom, just. With our cases as well, my challenge was having the flexibility to jump across the room and the cases blocking my only walk way.


Prague was a total delight and while we enjoyed plenty of wine and our nights out in the old town, we were enthralled in the culture and felt very 'adult'. We found a walking tour to join spontaneously while randomly watching the Astro clock and had a blast. Another 'tip' based, free tour and it was great. So much info and random fun facts. The history of the Astro clock and the gluttony, greed, death and Turkish figurines. The Tyn cathedral and the difference between the two towers; the history of the Jewish Quarter and the cemetery stacked 12 deep, the 'Old New Synagogue' and the haunted St James cathedral with the mummified hand said to belong to the hand of the thief who was caught stealing from the church. We found the Coffee Cube, who served the best coffee we had all trip and saw the composers building now missing one of its 34 figurines. The story goes that one of the Nazi leaders believed one of the composers was Jewish and ordered he be removed, but not knowing what he looked like his lackey's destroyed the wrong one!

We also loved wandering both new and old town's, along the river, past Frank Gehry's 'Dancing House', over the Charles Bridge at least three times, Wenceslas Square, seeing the upside down horseman again. Learning the story of Franz Kofka at the headless suit monument and then randomly discovering his huge silver rotating face when we were wandering home late one night. We spent hours sitting in the sun enjoying the Old Town Square just watching the world go by. For once we had no were to be, and it was bliss. A definite highlight was getting tickets to see the Royal Czech Orchestra at the Tyn Cathedral. It was the most magical experience and we were so spoilt being assisted by staff to get Dickey up the marble entrance stairs and then placed in the front row! Neither of us had ever experienced anything like it and the location just added to the experience, especially when we had expected back row, restricted viewing seats given our purchase price.

Once again Prague was a total love affair and a place we could return to again and again. It may have been a short stop but we achieved loads, and ticked off our goal of discovering the cultural and history as well as reliving some of the party days of our 20's. A word of warning from the now wise, Absinthe is hideous on ice and the cobblestones are brutal in high heels but 1000x's worse in a wheelchair!
Berlin the next stop.

Thur 28/4 - Sun 1/5

9. Beautiful Budapest (Part 2)

Budapest was a treasure trove of sensory delights, culture and beauty. From the Jewish Quarter where we were staying to the Inner city there was such a difference, including the polished marble paths and buildings. It was just so perfect! Vaci street, the Parlimentary buildings, the banks of the Danube. Buda, the Citadel and Liberty lookouts and the city gardens were all stunning. We adored it all!

6m deep communist facade. A shallow bunch...

Keen to gain some cultural knowledge we headed off to do the Budapest Walking Tour early on our second morning. Somehow ending up on the Communist Tour rather than the general tour we were stoked with our fortune and were amazed by how much we learnt, and the knowledge and passion of our 20 something tour guide. Her detail and enthusiasm for her country and culture was admirable and highlighted how little many of us really learn, or possibly care about Australian history. Despite our frozen fingers and toes we found coffee to warm us up and headed on to join the Budapest main walking tour for the afternoon. Zoltan our guide was just brilliant, a true entertainer and story teller. We had a blast and his assistance with ensuring we could access every part of the tour was just fantastic. The facts were amazing - extended families all living in tiny apartments, even today. The hiding of religious preference during the communist years, the communist attitude we witnessed still alive in the city, particularly amongst so called authoritarian figures. The history of the bridges, the Danube, the market place, even the pixie sitting on the fence down by the Danube. The fact that all monuments, other than the Liberty and Soviet now reside in the cemetery. The Hungarians are a witty bunch!