22. Bilbao and then it was goodbye as I boarded the plane home

Arriving in Bilbao we checked in at the quaint Petite Palace right on the edge of the Old Town and near the river. As our love of old town villages continued, this one didn't disappoint. On our first night we found a little bar in the piazza, Gure Toki and had the most epic fun trying the different wines and Pinxtos specials. I was a huge fan of the green olive, chilli and anchovy skewer, Dickey not so much! We loved trying to communicate with the bar staff and realized how different the basque language is to Spanish, not that we knew much Spanish. Via smiles and pointing we ordered many rounds over the next three nights as we made it our local. Sometimes we weren't quite served what we were expecting but it was so much fun! When each round was only around 3 Euros, we sure didn't mind at all.

Gure Toki delight!

Old town Piazza

Bilbao is an incredible city and a great place to see on foot. Like in many of the cities we had visited I loved taking the opportunity to get out for some great morning runs around the town. There is always a place to run and so much to see! I was so excited to see the Guggenheim in real life and despite having no idea who Frank Gehry was when we left Australia, it was now going to be our third Frank Gehry designed structure for the trip. My first glimpse was from the opposite bank of the river as I ran by and the size and layout was incredible to see in real life! The titanium exterior shining in the sun, the silver balls, Mama the huge spider, the way it has been given prime position between between the two old bridges that traverse the river and of course the flower covered giant puppy at the main entrance. It was one thing to take it in on the run, but even more impressive up close. In fact when Dickey and I returned to explore in detail later that day we were so taken by the outside that we decided not to go in and see any exhibitions and instead spent hours wandering the outside and then reading up on it all in the shop inside! Outside the main entrance the big Puppy is insane! When we were there it June he was adorned with colourful spring blooms. Changing with the seasons, apparently through winter he is all green!
The Guggenheim is certainly a statement and deservedly takes prime of place on the river looking back towards the main town center. From what we have read it did single-handedly save the struggling port town of Bilbao and put it firmly on the map. No longer as an export town, but as a tourist destination.

Since this creation of the Guggenheim the rest of Bilbao had a reason to flourish and the old buildings have been beautifully restored around the city center and the streets are spotless. The locals are without a doubt very proud of their city. There are many piazzas, green spaces and fountains. A main roundabout that is a gorgeous floral display and the building overlooking it famous because every one of the windows and balcony's are different. The architect was clearly having a laugh! We stumbled across the Azkuna Zentroa and were so very glad we did. A 1900's facade it has had the most interior renovation and all of the pillars inside are different and the design giving the illusion that the upper office buildings are suspended!

What a roundabout!

Every window is different!

Back in 2007 & 2008 I had worked on board cruise ships and had made many friends who I am still in contact with today, thanks to social media! Mariette was the first captains wife on my first ship and we became great friends. She was in fact the first one to explain the Basque/ Spanish relationship to me! By luck she was back home in Bilbao when we were there, rather than sailing the world with Sindre and she and their three year old son Markus were living near the port just north of Bilbao. We organised to go up and meet her and it was a fantastic trip. Using the super easy metro we headed out to Santurtzi disembarking the train as the first storm of the day hit. It was a blustery cold day, but between rain showers did manage to walk along the west bank of the port up to the incredible Vizcaya Bridge. This transporter bridge is incredible and one of only few still in use around the world. Back and forwards it travels every two or so minutes, loaded with people, cars and bikes covering the 160m span across the river. It was the first gondola suspension bridge in the world used to transport people and traffic and it is awesome to see it still operating. We were meeting Mariette on the opposite side of the river so the Vizcaya was to be our mode of transport too. Convinced for some reason it would be expensive and not able to understand the ticket instructions I started shoveling coins into the machine. At around 8 euros it started beeping and with a clatter out came the change. It was in fact only .40 euro cents each way for a pedestrian to cross. So cheap, we did consider doing a few trips, but thought that may be odd! 

On the other side of the bank we sheltered in a cafe for the next few hours as the rain poured down, but to catch up with Mariette and Markus it was worth it. It is always so good seeing a friend after many years and just picking up where you left off. We were also super intrigued that at 31/2 Markus had just been picked up from school at 4.30pm. We had presumed she meant care, but no it was in fact full time school! At three children are sent off to school in Spain and Basque from 9am til 4.30pm, with the only break being the traditional siesta after lunch. Just like everyone else! Possibly a combination of this early schooling and the fact that his parents are bilingual his language was incredible and his English clear and confident. He speaks Basque, Spanish & Norwegian as well and when starting school had been the only child able to speak anything other than Basque. We were super impressed and loved hearing his stories about going with his Dad to Australia on the ship and that he was currently sailed through Asia in and out of Hong Kong! With the rain taking a break as we said our goodbyes, hopeful to see each other again soon, we decided to head to the marina and beach nearby. The beach was perfectly groomed, but of course deserted and the cruise port and marina impressive. Watching the clouds coming in from the water we realised the next storm was headed straight for us and we rushed to find shelter. As it hit our best hope was a bus stop and we took refuge for the next 20 minutes as it poured and stormed! Slightly soaked but happy after such a great day we made it back to Bilbao for our last night.

As the trip for me drew to its final days our last journey together was to Madrid on the train before I flew home the following evening. With more leave available Dickey was set to stay on for an extra two weeks and was heading south to meet a couple of ex-pat mates in Rhonda and Seville. Despite knowing the whole time that I had to leave him eventually it was still a hard and as much as I tried to keep it together I was pretty emotional those last two days! Leaving Bilbao the train was again exceptional - fast and comfortable. As we whizzed past the baron terrain it was with a surprise when Madrid seemed to pop up out of nowhere!

For our last night Dickey had booked a room at the stunning Dear Hotel, located on the Gran Via. It was a perfect location and a great spot given we only had 24 hours. Following a wine at the roof top bar to admire the view we proceeded to accomplish all site seeing possible in a short space of time. We saw the amazing Royal Palace, many gardens, fountains, statues and monuments. The Grand Palace, Plaza Mayor and the market which was a bit to hectic for my liking! At the main train station we spent around two hours trying to purchase Dickeys ticket to Sevilla the following day but found the lifts impossible to navigate between the metro and national terminals. There were hoards of people but no assistance and when we finally made it to the correct ticket office there was literally 30 people in line ahead of us! The only good bit about the station experience was the tortise pond in the middle of the atrium. I'm not sure I've ever seen so many in one place! With the afternoon disappearing and the train network and accessibility all getting a bit too much in my emotional state it was a cab to the airport. Cutting it a little fine we were suddenly saying our goodbyes before I was pointed through customs and then on to a train to take me the 10 minute journey to the departure terminal.

Looking back and reflecting on what had been the most incredible trip and blissful learning experience I was able to acknowledge how we had changed, and not just in the obvious - that I had gone away with a boyfriend and come home with a fiance! I think when we left Australia we had both genuinely expected we would do lots together but would also spend time apart exploring on our own. After eight weeks I was pretty sure I would be fine to head on home and we would be happy to have some time apart. The reality was that we had settled in to such a smooth routine and become such an exceptional team that other than while I ran of a morning we had hardly spent a moment apart. For a couple of typically fiercely independent people in our regular lives we had become pretty used to being together! We had grown as a couple, seen amazing sites, meet incredible people along the way and drank many exquisite wines. We had deepened our love of travel, culture and architecture and were already itching to plan our next adventures, our wedding and a life together. Though there had been challenges and we had experienced issues that many possibly avoid there had been many wins and we could only be grateful for all we had learnt, seen and overcome. Truly an experience of a lifetime and after 57 days away together our Royally Dickey European Adventure was complete and it was time to get home and plan the next adventure.....

Bilbao - 13/6 - 16/6

Madrid - 16/6 - 17/6

21.​ Falling in love with the Basque Country

From Logrono we hit the hills via Vittoria towards San Sebastián. While the trip was longer than anticipated the view was incredible from the peaks and we were so glad we had hired the car and been able to experience this drive. After several wrong turns along the way and many laps of the streets searching for our hotel when we finally arrived in San Seb it was a matter of racing the bags in to the hotel and shooting off to the car hire return, making it with only about five minutes til close. My blood pressure was sky high as I ran in, only to be met by a super casual, non-plussed greeting from the relaxed Basque attendant. Opening and closing times we discovered, are merely a guide! No need to stress at all!! While wandering back to the hotel along the river bank and relaxing in to the vibe I instantly fell in love with San Seb and it only intensified in the coming days!

Pension Loalida

Another fantastic find, the Pension Loalida hotel was fully accessible, equipped with a lift and only two blocks from the Concha Beach. The foreshore that runs from Concha beach to Playa de Ondaretta is stunning and we spent so much time enjoying this part of San Seb. We loved taking in the view of the landscape, buildings on the hill behind and in particular people watching. When the sun was out there were people everywhere and so many kids playing games and doing flips in the sand. Everyone seemed so relaxed and comfortable in their own skin. Bikinis or brief swimmers were the norm for young or old and this confidence was incredibly refreshing. It really reminded us how conservative and judgmental we have become in Australia.

Concha Beach

The old town of San Sebastián is a true highlight and of course we adored it. It was always busy but the vibe was chilled and happy. Around three weeks overdue for a hair cut one of Dickeys first tasks was to find a barber. We stumbled on the most fabulous old style barber and he lined up for a cut and razor shave, getting himself into the traditional old chair! It wasn't just a brilliant experience it was a fab cut and shave too! Everything about San Sebastián was ideal. The atmosphere, relaxed vibe, the crystal clear water, green hills behind, the old town village, the incredible food, gin and tonic appertif's, the wine and the many bars. It was total bliss with the only thing lacking being sunshine for the majority of the week.

Old town San Seb. Our fave bar was at the base of the church!

On our first morning we had noticed how packed the beaches were and declared after our siesta we would head to the water. Unfortunately when we woke up it was raining and remained overcast and rainy weather for the next four days! Talking to the locals it seemed this was normal and they were used to quick changes in weather before summer started. To the Spanish and Basque the summer starts in July, not June like the rest of Europe and they are very serious when they tell you this, so we dared not contradict them! If our week of weather was anything to go by, we believed them!! In preparation for the official launch each day we watched the beach chairs, umbrellas and mats being delivered and set up. It truly is the most fabulous beach culture and during the week when the sun did make an appearance within minutes there were people everywhere. It was as if they were packed ready and waiting! It would instantly become a hive of activity and was transformed so fast. There was always so many ball games, tag, and frisbee going on. Our favorite to watch though was the flip sets up where the groups would half bury a fitball to us as a rebounder and spend hours lined up taking turns to flip and tumbled over them!! We literally spent hours people watching.

The beach was also fantastically accessible beach too, but unfortunately not open until the start of July. The roll out mats allowed chair access to the water and there were water wheelchairs available via the lifeguards through the summer. Throughout southern Spain they were available for more of the year, but limited times in San Seb. It is only since coming home that we have seen them 'rolling out' around Australia. (There is a Port Stephens Blog coming soon and I'll tell more then!) We can only hope it will get better and look at purchasing our own water wheelchair.

Sad to leave San Seb but excited for Bilbao we had another fantastic public transport experience. We took one of the many buses between the two cities that run every 30 minutes and ALL of them equipped with wheelchair lift access. With a little trouble the driver managed to get it open and working and 70 minutes later we were in Bilbao. Despite the slight delay in departing and the extra work he had to do he couldn't have been more helpful and even with our non-existent Basque and his limited English persisted in trying to direct us to the local train network. Or at least that's what we figured. With smiles and head nods we left with our luggage and no idea what he had been trying to tell us! By chance we found the tram stop while looking for the train connection and realized it would drop us 200m from our hotel plus give us a great first view of Bilbao as we traversed the city. I got my first incredible glimpse of the Guggenheim and this gorgeous city!

San Sebastián 8/06 - 13/6

19. Beautiful Barcelona

We were sad to be leaving Croatia but so excited to get to Spain starting with the weekend in Barcelona. We both loved our previous times in this amazing city and we're pumped for an epic weekend ahead and some time out on the town!

The airport transfer and boarding was super smooth and they had a special 'boarding truck' for those with mobility issues to get Dickey to the door of the plane. It was door to door service, literally. 

Landing in Barco was not so smooth and we had a 30 minute wait on the plane just to get off. We are used to being first on, last off but in this case it was such a wait that we even delayed the outgoing flight and had incoming crew leave us with the outgoing crew. Incredibly there is only one assistance team at the whole of Barcelona Airport and they were off tending to someone else when we arrived! The saving grace was that by the time we got to customs, passport control and baggage the rest of the flight was already gone.

Faulty Towers, gorgeous on the outside!

From the airport we caught the accessible shuttle to our hotel in the city. We were staying right near the Catalunya gardens and it was the first of many awesome public transport experiences in Spain. When booking our two nights in Barco the accommodation had all been coming up pretty expensive but we had thought ourselves super lucky when we found a well priced room at the City Park Pelayo Hotel. We told ourselves it didn't matter if it was old and sub par, we were in Barco to explore and make the most of the city but the reality when we arrived wasn't so laughable! What they had failed to advertise or even tell us when we checked in was that the hotel, which was magnificent on the outside, was in the middle of a major refurb and subsequently there was no aircon and they were have issues with the sewer system. Our 'accessible' room was a sauna and smelt like a septic tank. It was so small that Dickey couldn't get past the bed to the bathroom until we managed to move it the remaining 10 cm towards the wall. While the bathroom did at least have an inbuilt shower bench it was so bent and damaged that it hung at a 45o angle pointing to the floor and was completely unable to be used. 

Back down to reception we were offered an apology, free breakfast, a key to unlock the secured window, a tiny blow fan that looked and felt more like a foot heater and reassurance that they would have someone out to repair the shower bench the next day. We would see.

Getting out of 'faulty towers' with some haste we took off to explore and even though it was after 7pm by this time the vibe in the street was just amping up - so very Spanish. We wandered for the next couple of hours enjoying the warm night and reminiscing. We had the most fabulous meal in the piazza with the palm trees after joining the line at the most popular restaurant. It was so worth the wait and the seafood, especially the whole fried sardines and the Sangria were sensational. We were keen to kick on and wandered many lanes looking for the right place to go. We found our way back to the Enchanted Forrest Bar we each remembered from years before but the vibe was dead and it seemed to have become a tourist attraction over the years rather than the cool club it once was. We had been searching with our ears mainly and could hardly hear music coming from any bars. WE eventual realised that they all had double glazing and noise proofing! We tried a couple of other places, with no real success and then headed back to the hotel for a sweaty and smelly sleep.

The Enchanted Forrest Bar

Sunday we headed off in the morning for a free walking tour with Sandeman's and had the most awesome experience. This was up there with the best tour we had done and Erik our guide was just brilliant. An American ex-pat he sure knew his history. We explored Old Town and the Gothic Quarter, the Old Royal Quarters, Dali's church where he prayed and heard the story of how he died walking between this church and his La Familia Sagrada. We saw the ammunition damage in the squares, the many Catalunyan flags throughout the city, the monuments and statues. We heard stories of Spanish politics and the bid for independence of the local people who like the Basque were determined to fight to become Catalunyans, rather than Spanish. We saw so much, learnt so much and loved it all. Erik was also super inclusive of Dickey and always making sure he could not only get access by see and hear. He was a total champ. The tour finished at the gardens near the zoo and the most spectacular fountain I had even seen. To me, so much more beautiful than the Trevi and somehow we had never heard of this one or seen it on our last visits. Not only was the tour top notch we had meet a fantastic Aussie couple Paul and Julie and when they announced the other tours on offer we all agreed to sign up for that evenings Tapa Tour and regroup at 7pm that night.

Off on our own for the remainder of the afternoon we headed straight up to Dali's La Familia via the Arc del Triomf. It was sunny gorgeous afternoon and with ice creams in hand we marveled over the progress and architecture of the Church. I had seen it 8 years prior and Dickey around 12 years prior and from the sounds of things at those times it was in a similar state. For a building under construction since 1882 it seems in more recent years they have really knuckled down in a bid to finish it. It is mind blowing and so worth the visit. Unsure we would have the time to see it we didn't book the internal tour, but it is accessible and 100% on our list for when we go back to Spain in 2018. (Yes we are going back!)

Needing a nap pre the evening tour we caught the metro back to Faulty Towers and were again pleasantly surprised how easy it was to navigate and get around. Certainly the best so far on our trip. 

Back at faulty towers we discovered they had indeed come to fix the shower chair. Installing a raw cut steel pole to hold the seat at right angles and securing it with sharp unfinished bolts. The final result, while stable and able to function as a seat now proved to be nerve racking for anyone wanting to place bare skin on raw metal by way of transferring. (I'll leave you with that mental image!)

Meeting Paul and Julie we were excited for a great night out. True, we had a great time as a group, but this tour was certainly sub-par. The evenings guide was Eric (not Erik from this morning) and he was not on form at all that night. For the sake of this exercise we'll put it down to a bad night... It was a poorly planned and badly organised tour and we spent the majority of the night wandering between the bars and waiting, as opposed to tasting the tapas and learning the history of Tapa. In fact the highlight was tasting the long poor red wine and cider. When the tour was over it was like a stampede and the other 24 in the group couldn't get away quick enough. Starving after only trying a couple of bites of food all night we stayed on at the last bar having a fantastic time over wine and food with our new friends. In the end we made it a ripper night! 

Checking out of Faulty towers after our quick Barco weekend our next stop was Logrono, La Rioja and then on to San Sebastian. As a last minute idea we decided to get ourselves a car so we could explore the famed wine region more closely and equipped with our little Audi A1 we were on the road again.

Barcelona 4/6 - 6/6/2016