17. Venice and the challenge of the canals

From Como we were off to Verona bright and early to drop off the hire car. Being early on a Sunday morning the roads were quiet and we zoomed along the autobahn blissfully happy sitting on around 130km/hr! We were still buzzing with our new secret and had a blast discussing our ideas and options. I had never thought Dickey would propose, let alone had given a thought to being married, but how wrong I was! He had kept so many good secrets and actually had lots of ideas of what we should do. Thankfully pretty similar to mine!

With the hire car successfully returned to the depot we were on the shuttle from the Airport depot to Verona Railway station to catch the train to Venice. The shuttle had an accessibility lift installed and we were excited that this driver was able to use it! At the Verona station the 'Saila Blu' assistance personnel were fantastic as well as hilarious and we were on the train without an issue. 

Arriving in Venice I was totally blown away. Dickey had been years ago when on his contiki tour so had a bit of an idea of what we were in for but for me it was my first experience. We had given ourselves just an afternoon to explore prior to our flight to Dubrovnik and had expected there would be some accessibility limitations. The reality was he had forgotten some key points about the layout and the limitations were actually pretty excessive....

From the main Santa Lucia station we were out the doors and face to face with the Grand Canal. I couldn't comprehend that it was right there! The airport shuttle terminal was just over the canal, around 400m away so we decided to take our bags over there and store them at on of the bag drops - at 6 euro a piece to make it an easier transition later in the day. This main bridge was beautiful marble .... and stairs, no ramp, but we spotted a 'wheelchair accessible pod' that looked set up to get us across the river. Winning we thought! 

Venice is famous for the haggling porters and as we made our way down to the pod we had one of them in hot pursuit, desperately trying to gain our business. Quoting 20 Euro to carry 2 cases we weren't so keen. We persisted in brushing him off and as we got to the pod he continued to call out to us until we eventually realised he was genuinely trying to tell us the lift was out of order. It was indeed not operational and looked to have been so for a long period of time, but minus any signage. Other than by boat down and back this bridge was the only access across the canal from the station to the bus terminal. As the drizzly rain started to fall we rearranged our bags and got everything into two cases and as Dickey stayed minding one bag I headed off over the bridge carrying the other. Stubborn and sweating over two trips I got our 50kg of luggage over the Grand Canal, checked in to the storage locker for a few hours, confirmed which shuttle was wheelchair accessible (ACTV is, ACTO isnt!) and was back with Dickey in 40 minutes. Apparently the porter had watched this all unfold and when I headed off with the 2nd bag had offered to Dickey to carry it for free! I think his reply was something to the affect of 'you try and stop her'.

With 3 1/2 hours left to explore we headed to the tourist office. My only request had been to see St Marks square and to take a ferry down the Grand Canal. Fortunately my aim had been set quite low, because it was almost all we were able to do. The reality of Venice is that every single bridge we saw had stairs! At the tourist office we were able to get a ferry ticket for 1.50 euro each (discounted price likely due to how little you can do if in a chair maybe?!) and boarded the ferry up to the square. Despite the constant drizzling rain we had a great time watching the gondolas, speed boats, water taxis, ferry's and magnificent building that were somehow still occupied and no doubt expensive despite the obvious water damage. The traffic on the water has to be seen to be believed and despite constant close calls we didn't see any carnage. Similarly, even though I had seen plenty of pics of Venice I don't think I had actually comprehended that the only transport is by boat and that the entire city is a series of canals and buildings built on the water. It truly does have to be seen before it sinks below the rising water for good. 

St Marks was of course stunning and we took some time in the square and surrounding streets. We grabbed a last Italian coffee, which was unfortunately almost undrinkable and headed back to the ferry. We worked out that at least this one would get us to the right side of the canal to access the airport shuttle. Turns out we cut our trip a little fine, underestimating 'Italian time' and got ourselves a little stressed when the return trip took 20 minutes longer than the original. As the ferry docked we flew off, Dickey headed to the ACTV bus office to get our tickets and me to get our bags. We made it to the crowd of people waiting for the bus with 5 minutes to spare and thankfully a lovely Swedish couple jumped in to assist with getting our bags on the bus as people insisted on pushing past. The bus probably did have a ramp as advertised but it was so overcrowded it was easiest just to help pop Dickey up the step and in to the bus before it went roaring off. We weren't even sure the driver was aware we were on until he saw Dickey bounce off the bus at the airport. 

Since leaving Melbourne on April 22nd these were our first flights and part of why we had been pretty conscious of our luggage weight and not buying too much along the way. That and the fact that we were dragging it around with us every few days! Croatian Airlines were fab and despite each of our bags being 7.5kg over the limit we had no issues and our bags, complete with a few bottles of Italian wine were checked in. Boarding was also super easy and we were taken up a special lift that took Dickey, in his aisle chair, right to the front door of the little Dash 8. The aerial view of Venice as we left was amazing and really put it is perspective. I was glad to have seen it, ticked it off the list so to say, but not somewhere we would need to come back to. As far as accessibility, it really was about as inaccessible as you can get!

Our three week Italian adventure had come to an end, with our final two destinations ahead of us - Dubrovnik and Spain.

Venice - Sunday 29th May

15. Tuscan vineyards and day trips

Tuscan sunset, La Pressura

While the main reason we had come to Italy was to follow the Giro D'Italia cycling it was followed a close second by our goal to enjoy local winery's and visit many of Tuscany's incredible villages.

San Gimignano was one of our day trips and quite possibly one of the top 10 days on our European trip! Seeing the village up on the hill was incredible and as we parked the car we realized the way in to the walled old town was via a lift built on to the old city wall. Getting in was accessible, moving around inside a bit more of a challenge! Like Sienna, San G was cobbled streets and hills but it was worth every bit of the pushing Dickey up hills and him bouncing across the cobble stones. A small village, it pretty beyond imagination. To us, more spectacular that Siena, but on par with Verona perhaps. We also loved the beautiful views of the Tuscan hills and surrounding vineyards from the city walls. We had read that the "worlds best gelato" was at Gelateria Dondoli, in the main piazza. It was seriously out of this world delicious and the 100m long line was definitely warranted! We were also lucky enough to meet the owner who makes a point of coming out to greet his customers when he is in town!

San Gimignano love

Gelateria Dondoli, line up. Best in the world!

Lucca was a town I had been lucky to visit twice in the past and I was determined to get Dickey there to see it. Distance wise it was a good day trip from our Tuscan base. Lucca is most famous for its well-preserved Renaissance walls encircling the city center and completely intact, as well as its gorgeous circular Piazza. It is the perfect little town for wandering and taking in the ancient sites. The botanical gardens are divine and the fable of the vane princess worth finding at the lily and tortoise pond. There is the 'del fosso' channel, the Atifeatro, the bell tower, Basilica Frediano with its uber high ceilings and marble columns, the frescos and the monuments. When travelling the first time I was amazed by the interior of the San Martino Cathedral and made sure I took Dickey to see it. He was given free entry as an added bonus and got to see the octagonal temple built in 1484 containing the Volto Santo of Lucca on a wooden crucifix, the sarcophagus and marble carving of its inhabitant, the many incredible art works, including the famous Last Supper depiction and the huge marble alter. It was another grand church in Italy. The perfect finish to our day in Lucca was to roll the 4 km circumference on top of the walls and then on the way back to our car to discover the tunnels within. It was a brilliant day in an Italian village.

Lucca's circular Piazza

Cinque Terre was unfortunately not such a successful day trip, with the only saving grace being that we had both been in the past, having completed the famed 14 km 'lovers lane' hike 8 years apart. We were so excited to go back to the villages and knew it would be a big day, but hopefully worth it. We had both used the trains between the villages so we took off early heading for Riomaggiore where we would leave the car and then spend the day going between the towns. It had been a morning of great excitement and little sleep as our race horse, Divine Chills had raced at Flemington, Melbourne and had won! She was not expected to given it was only her third race and we were beside ourselves with excitement especially after talking to the other syndicate owners in the Flemington owners bar! Battling our way through the north bound traffic on a sunny Saturday we found what appeared to be the last park in Riomaggiore, right beside the tourist information building. Perfect. In we went only to be greeted by the assistant shaking her head at us in dismay. "Cinque Terre fabulous, but not for a wheelchair". Thinking she meant the challenge of the hills we smiled assuring her we would be fine. Allowing her to explain we were informed that in the five villages there were only two stations with lifts and they were both out of order. All of them had many steps. We were stunned as she went on to explain we could drive to Manarola. It was flat, but had little to see or do and that she wouldn't recommend driving any further due to the narrow and dangerous roads. Apparently most of the locals even avoid them! We were pretty shattered to say the least and rolled down the newly constructed pathways to the lookout. We sat and looked out over the Mediterranean sea toward the villages we could no longer get to. We talked and reminisced and did our best to selvage the day. In a bizarre coincidence we also worked out that we had both stayed in the same private hostel in Riomaggiore 8 years apart. There had been plenty of works done to improve the main pathways and access to the train station, but the steep main street of Rio' was just as we both remembered. Over a stunning seafood lunch we cheered our girl Divine Chills on her win and tried to laugh away the disappointment. On the way up and out of the village we must have been a site as I pushed Dickey up the steep hill and back to the car. On recommendation of the Tourist Office clerk we stopped in at Porto Veneria on the way back to Tuscany. It was a flat and lovely village near La Spezia with a castle and fort out on the point and a lovely marina. The day had not been totally lost!

Riomaggiores' main street

Ponte Veneria

Ponte Vecchio brilliance

Our final day trip, on our last day in Tuscany was Florence. We took off in the morning to find the bus from the nearest village only to find ourselves in a huge storm and unable to find the main bus station! 10 days earlier I had freaked out at the thought of having to drive in Florence, but today I was over the nerves and we pushed on through the rain and drove the remaining 10 km. It was actually that close! After trawling the streets we found a vacant disabled parking space and took off to find a map and see the sites. At the spectacular Duomo we were granted free entry and didn't even need to wait in the huge lines. We wandered the Mercato and then meet the hilarious Michelangelo at 'Michelangelo's Leather'. Going on reviews it is the best place to get quality jackets, bags and leather goods. He is an incredible character, total flirt and very good salesman. We resisted his charms and left feeling almost guilty not to have bought that jacket that he assured us, suited me better than anyone he had ever seen! With kisses goodbye he invited us to return and stay at his apartment and have our honeymoon with him. Italians!  The Ponte Vecchio is always a favorite and we found a wine bar with perfect views and sheltered from the windy and cold day. Finishing the day via the Uffizzi Piazza we headed back to the car. It was our last night at the villa and we were off to Brescia the next morning. Back to our car spot we found the hire car gone. Our first guess was that it had been towed, but of course we worried it was stolen. Thank goodness the key tag had the registration details on it because I had left all the hire documents in the glove box, for safe keeping! With sheer luck a couple approached their car right beside us and we appealed to them for help in English. We were in luck, not only did they speak perfect English but the girl had the phone number for car tows in her phone! For those of us in Australia we know that having your car towed is a lengthy and challenging process. Tow depots are usually out of town and it is a costly process. My mind was racing and I was instantly trying to work out how we could get to the car in a cab, and find our way through Florence at night and I was also very grateful I hadn't splurged on that leather jacket at Michelangelo's as I was sure I was about to need that money to pay our fine. It was 7.45 pm when our savior dialed the number and judging by her conversation the office was still open and she was speaking to real perso, rather than a machine. This was our first surprise in the next series of many. From my limited Italian I gathered she was explaining our situation, the space we had parked in and gave our registration number. Thanking the respondent in 3 different ways, as Italians so uniquely do she turned to us to deliver the outcome. First she apologized that she couldn't get us out of the fine. Second, that we had actually parked in a personally allocated disabled space. We had not noticed the number on the sign and evidently this was a personal spot for a disabled resident in the street. Oops. Finally she informed us that our car was just around the corner and they walked us the 400m to find it!! We could not believe it and thanked them as best we possibly could for their kindness and support. Taking the fine slip from the windscreen we were in the car and now back on the road to our villa by 8.10pm. The final part to the story... the fine was 28.70 euros. But if you have seen the way Italians park, it makes more sense!

The second half of our European Adventure definitely involved a lot of wine, and it was total bliss. Not only is wine very cheap and often cheaper than bottled water, it is also very very good!

Of the winery's we enjoyed the following are certainly worth a mention. Capezzano, near Prato is just fantastic. Situated up on a hill you could look down towards Florence and make out the Duomo in the distance. They have been producing wine and olive oil for more than 1200 years, and their experience showed! The view from the terrace was stunning and the DOCG Reserva and Rosato was divine. In Australia cellar doors are a drop in and bookings rarely required. In Europe it is apparently the opposite. True to our form we never booked, but mostly got lucky being able to do the tastings and even get on to our tour at one of our favorite vineyards! At Capezzano they allowed us to do a full, impromptu testing and then enjoy a glass out on the terrace. It was fantastic.

Antorini nel Chianti, Bond wonderment!

An architectural wonder Antorini nel Chianti was out of this world! We had read up on its creation and were aware that the new modern building was getting mixed reviews. Over seven years it was literally re-built in to the hill, all weathered steel, curves and lines looking like they are naturally a part of the Tuscan hills. The front was all glass and the spiral staircase leading up to the restaurant was stunning. It really does feel like something out of a James Bond movie as you drive towards it and we took it a step further driving up to the main gates to inquire if we could park on site, instead of in the car park on the opposite side of the road. We were granted entry and literally drove in to the building, parking underneath. It was far from just a winery; it housed a museum, cellar door and tasting bar. Reserved for the tours was access to the barrel rooms and views of the glass floored private tasting rooms. We asked about tours, and while they were fully wheelchair accessible they were booked out for the day. After wandering the vast interior we asked if we could go up to the restaurant terrace and enjoy a wine. Other than the spiral stairs the only only access was via a staff lift at the back of house. We were escorted through the big old doors and suddenly we were on an elevated walkway overlooking the barrel rooms, vats and the famous tasting rooms . It was incredible and due to sheer luck we were seeing it all free of charge. We were even allowed to stop for photos! It was a sensory explosion with the temperate rooms, the smell of the fermenting wines, the architectural design and sheer size of it. We couldn't get the smiles off our faces! And then up at the restaurant those smiles got even bigger. It was incredible. A glass enclosed space surrounded by young vines, lawns and a rose arbor and trellis. The restaurant was actually on the roof, but the roof was the top of the hill! To add to the beauty there was the most epic storm brewing and the clouds were incredible. It was one of those experiences that was just perfect and with a wine in hand we sat out enjoying the view and watched the storm get closer until we had to shelter at the last minute. A most fantastic day.

Antorini terrace

Antorini terrace

The suspended tasting room & barrel views

While there were many afternoon storms and the weather was unseasonably cold during our two weeks in Tuscany we were lucky to make the most of the poolside view of the sunset at La Pressura. Looking out over the olive groves and vineyards we watched the sun slowly melt into the hills. The sunsets and dusk were slow and lingering in Italy, perfectly matched to the good wine and so very different to Australia. Our Tuscan adventure had been total bliss.

Tuscany Wed 11/5 - Tue 24/5

14. Tuscan bliss, Chianti, Siena and the Giro d'Italia

A major aim of our time in Italy was to enjoy the culture, the wine, the lifestyle, and of course to follow the Giro d Italia Cycling. When Dickey was able to confirm accessibility ** and book at La Pressura Agritorismo farm we were beyond excited, what a lucky find! We had two weeks staying in a 16th century farm house surrounded by olives and vineyards which produced one of the regions famous Chianti Classicos'. It was going to be bliss!!