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| Tuscan sunset, La Pressura |
While the main reason we had come to Italy was to follow the Giro D'Italia cycling it was followed a close second by our goal to enjoy local winery's and visit many of Tuscany's incredible villages.
San Gimignano was one of our day trips and quite possibly one of the top 10 days on our European trip! Seeing the village up on the hill was incredible and as we parked the car we realized the way in to the walled old town was via a lift built on to the old city wall. Getting in was accessible, moving around inside a bit more of a challenge! Like Sienna, San G was cobbled streets and hills but it was worth every bit of the pushing Dickey up hills and him bouncing across the cobble stones. A small village, it pretty beyond imagination. To us, more spectacular that Siena, but on par with Verona perhaps. We also loved the beautiful views of the Tuscan hills and surrounding vineyards from the city walls. We had read that the "worlds best gelato" was at
Gelateria Dondoli, in the main piazza. It was seriously out of this world delicious and the 100m long line was definitely warranted! We were also lucky enough to meet the owner who makes a point of coming out to greet his customers when he is in town!
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| San Gimignano love |
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| Gelateria Dondoli, line up. Best in the world! |
Lucca was a town I had been lucky to visit twice in the past and I was determined to get Dickey there to see it. Distance wise it was a good day trip from our Tuscan base. Lucca is most famous for its well-preserved Renaissance walls encircling the city center and completely intact, as well as its gorgeous circular Piazza. It is the perfect little town for wandering and taking in the ancient sites. The botanical gardens are divine and the fable of the vane princess worth finding at the lily and tortoise pond. There is the 'del fosso' channel, the Atifeatro, the bell tower, Basilica Frediano with its uber high ceilings and marble columns, the frescos and the monuments. When travelling the first time I was amazed by the interior of the San Martino Cathedral and made sure I took Dickey to see it. He was given free entry as an added bonus and got to see the octagonal temple built in 1484 containing the Volto Santo of Lucca on a wooden crucifix, the sarcophagus and marble carving of its inhabitant, the many incredible art works, including the famous Last Supper depiction and the huge marble alter. It was another grand church in Italy. The perfect finish to our day in Lucca was to roll the 4 km circumference on top of the walls and then on the way back to our car to discover the tunnels within. It was a brilliant day in an Italian village.
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Lucca's circular Piazza
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Cinque Terre was unfortunately not such a successful day trip, with the only saving grace being that we had both been in the past, having completed the famed 14 km 'lovers lane' hike 8 years apart. We were so excited to go back to the villages and knew it would be a big day, but hopefully worth it. We had both used the trains between the villages so we took off early heading for Riomaggiore where we would leave the car and then spend the day going between the towns. It had been a morning of great excitement and little sleep as our race horse, Divine Chills had raced at Flemington, Melbourne and had won! She was not expected to given it was only her third race and we were beside ourselves with excitement especially after talking to the other syndicate owners in the Flemington owners bar! Battling our way through the north bound traffic on a sunny Saturday we found what appeared to be the last park in Riomaggiore, right beside the tourist information building. Perfect. In we went only to be greeted by the assistant shaking her head at us in dismay. "Cinque Terre fabulous, but not for a wheelchair". Thinking she meant the challenge of the hills we smiled assuring her we would be fine. Allowing her to explain we were informed that in the five villages there were only two stations with lifts and they were both out of order. All of them had many steps. We were stunned as she went on to explain we could drive to Manarola. It was flat, but had little to see or do and that she wouldn't recommend driving any further due to the narrow and dangerous roads. Apparently most of the locals even avoid them! We were pretty shattered to say the least and rolled down the newly constructed pathways to the lookout. We sat and looked out over the Mediterranean sea toward the villages we could no longer get to. We talked and reminisced and did our best to selvage the day. In a bizarre coincidence we also worked out that we had both stayed in the same private hostel in Riomaggiore 8 years apart. There had been plenty of works done to improve the main pathways and access to the train station, but the steep main street of Rio' was just as we both remembered. Over a stunning seafood lunch we cheered our girl Divine Chills on her win and tried to laugh away the disappointment. On the way up and out of the village we must have been a site as I pushed Dickey up the steep hill and back to the car. On recommendation of the Tourist Office clerk we stopped in at Porto Veneria on the way back to Tuscany. It was a flat and lovely village near La Spezia with a castle and fort out on the point and a lovely marina. The day had not been totally lost!
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| Riomaggiores' main street |
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| Ponte Veneria |
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| Ponte Vecchio brilliance |
Our final day trip, on our last day in Tuscany was Florence. We took off in the morning to find the bus from the nearest village only to find ourselves in a huge storm and unable to find the main bus station! 10 days earlier I had freaked out at the thought of having to drive in Florence, but today I was over the nerves and we pushed on through the rain and drove the remaining 10 km. It was actually that close! After trawling the streets we found a vacant disabled parking space and took off to find a map and see the sites. At the spectacular Duomo we were granted free entry and didn't even need to wait in the huge lines. We wandered the Mercato and then meet the hilarious Michelangelo at 'Michelangelo's Leather'. Going on reviews it is the best place to get quality jackets, bags and leather goods. He is an incredible character, total flirt and very good salesman. We resisted his charms and left feeling almost guilty not to have bought that jacket that he assured us, suited me better than anyone he had ever seen! With kisses goodbye he invited us to return and stay at his apartment and have our honeymoon with him. Italians! The Ponte Vecchio is always a favorite and we found a wine bar with perfect views and sheltered from the windy and cold day. Finishing the day via the Uffizzi Piazza we headed back to the car. It was our last night at the villa and we were off to Brescia the next morning. Back to our car spot we found the hire car gone. Our first guess was that it had been towed, but of course we worried it was stolen. Thank goodness the key tag had the registration details on it because I had left all the hire documents in the glove box, for safe keeping! With sheer luck a couple approached their car right beside us and we appealed to them for help in English. We were in luck, not only did they speak perfect English but the girl had the phone number for car tows in her phone! For those of us in Australia we know that having your car towed is a lengthy and challenging process. Tow depots are usually out of town and it is a costly process. My mind was racing and I was instantly trying to work out how we could get to the car in a cab, and find our way through Florence at night and I was also very grateful I hadn't splurged on that leather jacket at Michelangelo's as I was sure I was about to need that money to pay our fine. It was 7.45 pm when our savior dialed the number and judging by her conversation the office was still open and she was speaking to real perso, rather than a machine. This was our first surprise in the next series of many. From my limited Italian I gathered she was explaining our situation, the space we had parked in and gave our registration number. Thanking the respondent in 3 different ways, as Italians so uniquely do she turned to us to deliver the outcome. First she apologized that she couldn't get us out of the fine. Second, that we had actually parked in a personally allocated disabled space. We had not noticed the number on the sign and evidently this was a personal spot for a disabled resident in the street. Oops. Finally she informed us that our car was just around the corner and they walked us the 400m to find it!! We could not believe it and thanked them as best we possibly could for their kindness and support. Taking the fine slip from the windscreen we were in the car and now back on the road to our villa by 8.10pm. The final part to the story... the fine was 28.70 euros. But if you have seen the way Italians park, it makes more sense!
The second half of our European Adventure definitely involved a lot of wine, and it was total bliss. Not only is wine very cheap and often cheaper than bottled water, it is also very very good!
Of the winery's we enjoyed the following are certainly worth a mention. Capezzano, near Prato is just fantastic. Situated up on a hill you could look down towards Florence and make out the Duomo in the distance. They have been producing wine and olive oil for more than 1200 years, and their experience showed! The view from the terrace was stunning and the DOCG Reserva and Rosato was divine. In Australia cellar doors are a drop in and bookings rarely required. In Europe it is apparently the opposite. True to our form we never booked, but mostly got lucky being able to do the tastings and even get on to our tour at one of our favorite vineyards! At Capezzano they allowed us to do a full, impromptu testing and then enjoy a glass out on the terrace. It was fantastic.
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| Antorini nel Chianti, Bond wonderment! |
An architectural wonder Antorini nel Chianti was out of this world! We had read up on its creation and were aware that the new modern building was getting mixed reviews. Over seven years it was literally re-built in to the hill, all weathered steel, curves and lines looking like they are naturally a part of the Tuscan hills. The front was all glass and the spiral staircase leading up to the restaurant was stunning. It really does feel like something out of a James Bond movie as you drive towards it and we took it a step further driving up to the main gates to inquire if we could park on site, instead of in the car park on the opposite side of the road. We were granted entry and literally drove in to the building, parking underneath. It was far from just a winery; it housed a museum, cellar door and tasting bar. Reserved for the tours was access to the barrel rooms and views of the glass floored private tasting rooms. We asked about tours, and while they were fully wheelchair accessible they were booked out for the day. After wandering the vast interior we asked if we could go up to the restaurant terrace and enjoy a wine. Other than the spiral stairs the only only access was via a staff lift at the back of house. We were escorted through the big old doors and suddenly we were on an elevated walkway overlooking the barrel rooms, vats and the famous tasting rooms . It was incredible and due to sheer luck we were seeing it all free of charge. We were even allowed to stop for photos! It was a sensory explosion with the temperate rooms, the smell of the fermenting wines, the architectural design and sheer size of it. We couldn't get the smiles off our faces! And then up at the restaurant those smiles got even bigger. It was incredible. A glass enclosed space surrounded by young vines, lawns and a rose arbor and trellis. The restaurant was actually on the roof, but the roof was the top of the hill! To add to the beauty there was the most epic storm brewing and the clouds were incredible. It was one of those experiences that was just perfect and with a wine in hand we sat out enjoying the view and watched the storm get closer until we had to shelter at the last minute. A most fantastic day.
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| Antorini terrace |
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| Antorini terrace |
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| The suspended tasting room & barrel views |
While there were many afternoon storms and the weather was unseasonably cold during our two weeks in Tuscany we were lucky to make the most of the poolside view of the sunset at La Pressura. Looking out over the olive groves and vineyards we watched the sun slowly melt into the hills. The sunsets and dusk were slow and lingering in Italy, perfectly matched to the good wine and so very different to Australia. Our Tuscan adventure had been total bliss.
Tuscany Wed 11/5 - Tue 24/5
Lucca was a town I had been lucky to visit twice in the past and I was determined to get Dickey there to see it. Distance wise it was a good day trip from our Tuscan base. Lucca is most famous for its well-preserved Renaissance walls encircling the city center and completely intact, as well as its gorgeous circular Piazza. It is the perfect little town for wandering and taking in the ancient sites. The botanical gardens are divine and the fable of the vane princess worth finding at the lily and tortoise pond. There is the 'del fosso' channel, the Atifeatro, the bell tower, Basilica Frediano with its uber high ceilings and marble columns, the frescos and the monuments. When travelling the first time I was amazed by the interior of the San Martino Cathedral and made sure I took Dickey to see it. He was given free entry as an added bonus and got to see the octagonal temple built in 1484 containing the Volto Santo of Lucca on a wooden crucifix, the sarcophagus and marble carving of its inhabitant, the many incredible art works, including the famous Last Supper depiction and the huge marble alter. It was another grand church in Italy. The perfect finish to our day in Lucca was to roll the 4 km circumference on top of the walls and then on the way back to our car to discover the tunnels within. It was a brilliant day in an Italian village.
Cinque Terre was unfortunately not such a successful day trip, with the only saving grace being that we had both been in the past, having completed the famed 14 km 'lovers lane' hike 8 years apart. We were so excited to go back to the villages and knew it would be a big day, but hopefully worth it. We had both used the trains between the villages so we took off early heading for Riomaggiore where we would leave the car and then spend the day going between the towns. It had been a morning of great excitement and little sleep as our race horse, Divine Chills had raced at Flemington, Melbourne and had won! She was not expected to given it was only her third race and we were beside ourselves with excitement especially after talking to the other syndicate owners in the Flemington owners bar! Battling our way through the north bound traffic on a sunny Saturday we found what appeared to be the last park in Riomaggiore, right beside the tourist information building. Perfect. In we went only to be greeted by the assistant shaking her head at us in dismay. "Cinque Terre fabulous, but not for a wheelchair". Thinking she meant the challenge of the hills we smiled assuring her we would be fine. Allowing her to explain we were informed that in the five villages there were only two stations with lifts and they were both out of order. All of them had many steps. We were stunned as she went on to explain we could drive to Manarola. It was flat, but had little to see or do and that she wouldn't recommend driving any further due to the narrow and dangerous roads. Apparently most of the locals even avoid them! We were pretty shattered to say the least and rolled down the newly constructed pathways to the lookout. We sat and looked out over the Mediterranean sea toward the villages we could no longer get to. We talked and reminisced and did our best to selvage the day. In a bizarre coincidence we also worked out that we had both stayed in the same private hostel in Riomaggiore 8 years apart. There had been plenty of works done to improve the main pathways and access to the train station, but the steep main street of Rio' was just as we both remembered. Over a stunning seafood lunch we cheered our girl Divine Chills on her win and tried to laugh away the disappointment. On the way up and out of the village we must have been a site as I pushed Dickey up the steep hill and back to the car. On recommendation of the Tourist Office clerk we stopped in at Porto Veneria on the way back to Tuscany. It was a flat and lovely village near La Spezia with a castle and fort out on the point and a lovely marina. The day had not been totally lost!
